Sicily, Italy
A living museum of honey-hued palazzi, ancient markets and citrus groves, all under the menacing gaze of Europe’s most active volcano.
Written by Rosalyn Wikeley
Invaded by multiple civilisations throughout history, Sicily bears the cultural scars of its conquerors, through its layered architecture, its cuisine which varies across the island, its rituals, and its language (many locals speak Sicilian before Italian). Its largely unexplored interior is a mountainous time warp of towns where church bells chime through the dizzying midday heat and agricultural rhythms still define daily life. It’s the Dolce Vita stretches of Sicily’s coastline, and the undulating landscape wrapping its Baroque cities that play host to the island’s greatest hotels, along with Palermo, its handsome capital where Sicily’s golden age of aristocratic pomp and splendour transcends the centuries and inspired Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s legendary novel, ‘The Leopard.’ Whether you’re sipping a Garibaldi cocktail on some jasmine-framed terrace for Etna’s distant smokeshow, plunging into the glassy, bath-warm shallows from a warm rock or devouring pasta alla norma from a restaurant hovering over a twinkling bay, Sicily’s high points are irresistible. But to fully get under its skin, be prepared to rummage, and accept that this is an island where abandoned projects, loud, sensory-overload markets and rambling palazzi sit side-by-side.
Credit: Dico Baskoro
Credit: Emilia Wickstead
EXPERT TIPS
Irene Forte
Founder and CEO of Irene Forte Skincare, a luxury skincare brand that combines natural ingredients with scientific innovation. She is also the daughter of renowned hotelier Sir Rocco Forte.
IN FLIGHT ESSENTIALS: Clinisept with hypochlorous acid is my go-to for its antibacterial properties—I use it to disinfect my hands, the surrounding area, and always spritz it over my face. I then apply my cream-based Pistachio Face Mask, which is rich in omegas and clinically proven to hydrate and plump the skin—perfect for protecting against cabin dryness. Just before landing, I refresh with another Clinisept mist and lock everything in with my Hibiscus Night Cream, a proven rich and nourishing wrinkle-smoothing moisturiser powered by Myoxinol™, a neuropeptide from Hibiscus Seeds.
PACKING TIPS: I always travel with a full range of Irene Forte Skincare—I can't be without the Almond Cleansing Milk, Helichrysum Toner, Hibiscus Serum, Olive Eye Cream, and Hibiscus Night Cream. They're non-negotiables. When in Sicily, I love wearing brands that reflect the spirit of the island—Luisa Beccaria and La DoubleJ dresses are my go-tos. It can get surprisingly cool in the evenings, so I always pack a linen blazer (I’m currently loving one from Blaze Milano) or a jean jacket.
THE FILM TO WATCH/BOOK TO READ BEFORE DEPARTURE: The Leopard by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa is essential Sicilian literature—it captures the island’s soul and complexity like nothing else. Netflix recently released a six-part miniseries adaptation of the novel, following Luchino Visconti’s iconic 1963 film; both are well worth watching. For something a bit more playful, The White Lotus Season 2 is set in Sicily. While most of it was filmed in Taormina, one of the restaurant scenes actually takes place in the bar at Villa Igiea.
FAVORITE HOTEL: Verdura Resort, of course. Set across 230 hectares of olive groves with beautiful sea views, it’s where my brand began. It’s home to our organic farm, where we source many of our key ingredients, the place where I got married, and where you'll find the 4,000-square-metre Irene Forte Spa. I also love Villa Igiea—a historic, turn-of-the-century palazzo overlooking the Bay of Palermo. The restoration has thoughtfully preserved its heritage, involving the local community and celebrating Sicilian craftsmanship. It even features a more quirky Irene Forte Spa.
MEMORABLE MEALS: All the restaurants at Verdura are fantastic, but there’s nothing better than the busiate with shrimp from Sciacca and local pistachios at Amare Restaurant. I also adore MATES in Caltabellotta, a cozy, family-run spot that serves traditional Sicilian classics like Pasta alla Norma, made with the freshest local ingredients.
THE DRINK TO ORDER: Freshly squeezed Sicilian orange juice in the morning—made from oranges grown on our farm—is a must. For something a little more indulgent, I love a glass of Di Giovanna white wine with ice, which is also featured in our White Wine Body Cream and Helichrysum Toner.
BAR OF CHOICE: The Scirocco Bar at Verdura is my favourite spot for sunset drinks. Its name, inspired by the warm wind that travels from North Africa to Sicily, perfectly captures the essence of the place. For something more food-focused, I head to Bar Turistico in Palermo—a no-frills local gem where I can enjoy the best arancini and experience Sicily’s iconic street food.
FAVORITE SHOP: The shop at Grand Hotel Tremezzo has the most extraordinary selection of beautifully curated things.
WELLNESS TREATMENT TO TRY: So many! But here is one of my favorites!
Peptide Power: The Wrinkle-Smoothing Facial - 90 Minutes
An powerful Irene Forte Skincare facial treatment, fueled by peptides. Neuropeptide Myoxinol™, derived from Hibiscus Seeds, works to relax facial muscles and ease the tension that contributes to expression lines. This potent peptide powers a series of products used in the facial, which are combined with our signature advanced face workout massage. Paired with a Tri Energy Technology—microcurrent, radiofrequency, and red light—this treatment sculpts, lifts, and firms the skin, enhancing collagen and elasticity for a needleless youthful, radiant complexion.
Start mornings on a sweet, granita or brioche col tuppo note, indulge the Sicilian siesta, then slink into aperitivo hour with a Campari spritz, almonds and capers from Salina.
STAY
From reimagined masserie, once besieged by bandits, to rambling palazzi overlooking the Tyrrhenian blue, with turrets and tales of high society tomfoolery…
SAVOR
Sicily’s cuisine is singular in its multitude of cultural influences. From the Arab invaders bringing cous cous and chickpea flour for Palermo’s famous friend panelle, to the Normans’ affinity for game and meat – the island’s invaders all left their culinary mark. Perhaps the most famous Sicilian dish, that Catanian’s are rightly proud of, is Pasta alla Norma – a rich, tomatoey pasta dish of fried aubergine and fresh basil doused in ricotta shavings. Then there’s the sweet Sicilian breakfasts of granita (flavoured ice) and brioche, the plates of caponata (roasted vegetables in sauce) and arancini, whose filling and shape (like Sicilian dialects) adjusts according to where you are on the island. Whether sampling the island’s Michelin star scene, or diving into its more unbuttoned local joints, Sicily’s diverse, flavour-packed food prizes ingredients above all else, and is reason enough to visit.
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Address: Via Giuseppe la Loggia, 92100 Agrigento AG, Italy
Phone: +39 351 611 0085
Uniquely located within the actual Valley of the Temples UNESCO World Heritage park, Casa Diodoros is a family-run restaurant and agricultural project occupying a postcard-pretty cluster of renovated barns convening around a cobbled square. Having absorbed the beautifully-preserved Roman Temple of Concordia, wiggle down steps and a small path that leads to Casa Diodoros for flavour-packed, home-cooked classics (bean stew, focaccia with pumpkin and cheese, pasta with fresh bounty plucked from the archeological park as part of their commitment to boost organic production almonds, pistachios, saffron, ancient grains…). The cooking classes are also worth booking into.
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Address: Hotel Signum, Via Scalo, 15, 98050 Malfa Salina ME, Italy
Phone: +39 09 09 84 42 2Hotel Signum’s jasmine and bougainvillea-framed restaurant offers panoramic seaviews and creative riffs on Salina’s freshest bounty (the greenest Aeolian island known for its capers and sweet Malvasia white wine). Pretty plates of scabbardfish with almond and tiger milk or seafood spaghetti in creamy sauce roll out from Martina Caruso’s one-starred Michelin kitchen (Italy’s youngest female chef to nab a Michelin star) – and evenings drift on the terrace, overlooking a smoking, occasionally fiery Stromboli (neighbouring volcanic island) ahead with a La Planeta white wine or Amarillo Brillo.
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Address: Via Rocco Pirri, 59, 96017 Noto SR, Italy
Phone: +39 348 193 9792Those who know Noto prefer this polished Sicilian restaurant to those donning stars. Why? Because the food is just as ravishing, just as elevated but retains a home-cooked style without any of the frothy fancy. The restaurant’s Baroque bones are fleshed out with olive green velvet banquettes, chandeliers and framed classical sketches, while owners, Norma Gritti and Salvatore Malandrino greet guests and run through the specials. The menu blends Sicilian classics with Northern Italian dishes – a nod to Norma’s Milanese roots.
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Address: Via Teatro Greco, 59, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy
Phone: +39 0942 627 0200
Perched atop one of Taormina’s snazziest terraces (where grand tourees once puffed cigars to piano music), high above Naxos Bay, Otto Geleng is a dreamlike restaurant worth dressing up for. Diners can choose from meat, fish or vegetarian tasting menus - all deftly curated, all showcasing Sicily’s finest produce and wild bounty. Expect divine plates of beef carpaccio with capers and Sicilian black truffle, Nebrodi black pig with burrata and peas, and saffron risotto with grapefruit – all washed down with the sommelier’s pick of Etna’s finest wines.
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Address: Via D. Alighieri, 24, 95015 Linguaglossa CT, Italy
Phone: +39 329 687 6373
If you’re pasta alla norma’d out, Etna’s flamboyant Palazzo Previtera guesthouse in Linguaglossa has recently launched its restaurant, helmed by Swedish chef Elias Kvarning (previously Stockholm’s Ett Hem). Kvnarning’s knack for foraging (honed in Northern Sweden) is well catered to on Etna’s fertile slopes and guides the menus – the perfect blend of Swedish bitterness and fresh flavours with rich, Italian comfort. Menus shift daily but look forward to small bites such as tropea caramalised onion with salted fig and mains such as corn-fed chicken with asparagus and wild garlic velouté.
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Address: SP2/I-II, 60, 95018 Riposto CT, Italy
Phone: +39 095 7828932Fleshing out the original stone walls of an old palmento (a wine press carved into lava stone basins) Zash’s restaurant is a particularly moody, lowly-lit setting. The main peachy house (a retreat for Catanian nobility during the summer heat) is wrapped in citrus orchards whose fruits are cleverly woven into the menus - which Chef Guiseppe Raciti won Zash its Michelin stars for in 2019. They hit all those nostalgic, Sicilian notes while lifting things into a creative realm of uovo poche croccant (his signature poached egg wrapped in a thin crust that cracks like creme brulée), scallop ceviche with pomegranate, citrus, almond, chervil, and codfish risotto with broad beans and wild fennel – all doused in edible flowers like little works out art. Don’t miss the imaginative puddings (and check you’re not booking into pizza night if you’re expecting the usual Michelin star theatre).
Credit: Otto Geleng
Credite: Hotel Signum, Salina
This isn’t the Amalfi coast, Sicily’s easy going and understated.
With the exception of Taormina and Palermo’s smart hotels, it’s all about linen shirts, floaty dresses, and chic swimwear.
WELLNESS TIP
Verdura Resort, A Rocco Forte Hotel
It only takes a couple of minutes inside Verdura’s calm, creamy-stoned spa to lower shoulders several inches. Its cavernous spaces, including the indoor pool, pull the natural light in, while the thermal baths, surrounded by cacti and palms, are the ultimate antidote for a morning galloping along the beach on horseback or a game of doubles on the courts. The facials here are divine – choreographed to a t and so relaxing, nodding off is a given. Therapists lather Irene Forte skincare onto puffy cheeks, showing toxins the door and brightening up dull, jet-lagged skin.
Verdura Resort, A Rocco Forte Hotel
STYLE TIPS
Justine Raffia Bag from Sézane for market treasure and beach towels
Wide-brimmed straw hat for long days in the sunshine
Cute PAPER LONDON swimwear for beach, pool and boats days
Sézane day-to-night sandals you can comfortably scale the cobbestones in
YSSO statement earrings to subtly dial up a plain linen combo
WNU linen sets than transfer easily from town to pool, day to evening
Celine tinted sunglasses to take the edge off the girlish summer dresses
A Maria de la Orden white summer dress to go with everything
Casarakii relaxed evening dresses for al fresco dinners
A nostalgic If Only If nightgown you can sit on terraces in for breakfast and pretend it’s a dress
visualsoflukas
LOCAL FLAVORS
Sarde A Beccafico
Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea’s Executive Chef Agostino D'Angelo revisits this traditional Sicilian dish—one the hotel is famous for—for the tasting menu of its seaside restaurant Brizza (open June–September).
INGREDIENTS
For the Sardines
200 g sardines, cleaned and butterflied (“opened like a book”)
Bay leaves (as desired)
For the Filling
20 g breadcrumbs
5 g raisins, rinsed and squeezed
5 g pine nuts
15 g anchovy fillets in oil, coarsely chopped
15 g sugar
Parsley, finely chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste
For the Orange-Scented Emulsion
35 g acacia honey
10 g extra virgin olive oil
35 g orange juice
1 egg white (to be added in siphon)
For the Orange & Spring Onion Sorbet
Ingredients
200 g sugar
3 blood oranges
1/2 lemon
Orange liqueur (small glass)
1/2 L water
20 g spring onion, finely chopped
DIRECTIONS
Prepare the Sardines
Ensure sardines are well cleaned and butterflied.
Make the Filling
Toast breadcrumbs in a drizzle of olive oil over medium heat for a few minutes.
In a bowl, combine toasted breadcrumbs, raisins, pine nuts, anchovies, parsley, sugar, salt, and pepper.
Fill the Sardines
Place a spoonful of filling onto each sardine, then close it as though it had never been filleted.
Prepare the Emulsion
Mix honey, olive oil, and orange juice. Pour into a siphon with an egg white.
Make the Sorbet
Prepare a syrup by boiling water and sugar for ~15 minutes. Let cool.
Add blood orange juice, lemon juice, orange liqueur, and finely chopped spring onion.
Pour mixture into an ice cream maker and churn until light and frothy.
Bake the Sardines
Place bay leaves on top of the stuffed sardines. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F) for about 5 minutes.
Plate
Arrange sardines with orange and lemon zest, add a quenelle of the savory sorbet, and drizzle lightly with the orange-scented emulsion.
ON OUR RADAR
After Sicily, why not add a train journey on one of Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express routes? Such an iconic way to see more of the country.
IMMERSE YOURSELF
PLAYLIST: Discover our Sicily playlist, available on Spotify
PLANNING SERVICES
Let Glimpse founder Jordan Rhodes help you plan your next vacation.
As an advisor independently affiliated with Brownell Travel, a luxury, Forbes endorsed, Virtuoso Agency, Jordan has a whole team helping plan her clients’ vacations.
